Blog

Feb 13 2025

Restoring Lost Hill Park: A Conservation Effort Rooted in History

{3 minute read}

A few weeks ago, I found myself hauling and stacking invasive brush alongside the City of Springfield and the Master Gardeners of Greene County. It was rewarding work, but what stuck with me most was meeting someone whose efforts I had unknowingly admired for years.

Photo By: Pollen to Petal (invasive species removal at the Springfield Botanical Center)

That person was Caleb Sanders, the Conservation Coordinator for the Springfield-Greene County Park Board. If you’ve followed the highly anticipated Lake Springfield Plan, you may already be familiar with his work. But what you may not know is that he’s also leading incredible prairie and riparian restoration efforts at one of Springfield’s hidden gems—Lost Hill Park.

Photo By: Pollen to Petal (Parker as she explores the bed of the Dry Sac River at Lost Hill Park)

Lost Hill Park: A Geological and Ecological Treasure

Nestled in North Springfield, Lost Hill Park is a stunning natural area marked by unique glades, karst topography, and scenic trails. It also serves as the trailhead for the Fulbright Spring Greenway, making it a great spot for a peaceful walk. But beyond its beauty, Lost Hill Park plays a vital role in conservation. It offers a living classroom where visitors can observe geological formations, erosion patterns, and the impact of agriculture on riparian ecosystems.

Now, thanks to an ambitious restoration project, Lost Hill is undergoing a transformation—one that will return it to the open-canopy prairie it once was, complete with historic oak and hickory species.

Photo by: Pollen to Petal (native trees and shrubs set to be installed in the Lost Hill riparian area)

Looking Back 200 Years to Guide the Future

The foundation of this project is an extraordinary historical resource: an 1834 land survey by Elias Barcroft, a surveyor for the U.S. General Land Office. This detailed report documented not only the terrain but also the species, size, and distribution of trees in the area. Researchers at the Missouri Department of Conservation (MDC) used this survey to develop a comprehensive restoration plan, aiming to reintroduce fire-tolerant tree species that once thrived here.

Historically, the landscape of Lost Hill was shaped by natural fires, which allowed fire-resistant trees to grow to massive sizes. However, as the land was converted for agriculture and livestock grazing, fire suppression became the norm. Over time, fire-intolerant and invasive species took over, altering the natural balance of the ecosystem.

Photos courtesy of: Ashley Schnake/Missouri Department of Conservation (Elias Barcroft survey)

Restoring the Land, Reviving the Ecosystem

For years, parts of Lost Hill Park have been used for hay production, providing feed for animals at Dickerson Park Zoo. While this practice has been an innovative use of public resources, it has also contributed to severe erosion along the Dry Sac River.

Photo By: Pollen to Petal (MDC pollinator habitat signage)

To reverse this damage, Caleb Sanders and the MDC have launched a 15-year rehabilitation plan. Their efforts include:

Reintroducing Native Plant Species – Restoring the prairie with historically accurate oak and hickory trees, and pollinator and prairie habitat species.
Prescribed Burns – Utilizing controlled fire to remove invasive species and rejuvenate the soil.
Invasive Species Removal – Clearing out non-native plants that have taken over the landscape.
Timber Stand Improvement (TSI) – Carefully selecting trees for removal to encourage the growth of healthier, stronger specimens.

This project is more than just ecological restoration—it’s about reconnecting Lost Hill Park to its natural history and ensuring it remains a thriving habitat for generations to come.

Springfield is fortunate to have passionate conservationists like Caleb Sanders working to protect and restore its wild spaces. If you haven’t yet visited Lost Hill Park, now is the perfect time to explore this remarkable area and witness the early stages of its transformation.

Lost Hill is located about 2 miles North of the fairgrounds/Hillcrest Highschool on Grant Avenue (Farm Road 151).

Photos by: Pollen to Petal (1. Prairie restoration, 2. The Dry Sac as it runs under the Grant/FR 151 bridge 3. Charli and Parker as they explore the river bed)

Jan 18 2025

Native Seeds: How to Break Dormancy

{5 minute read}

Starting a garden from seed is a fantastic way to enhance your gardening skills while keeping costs low. Native annual and perennial seeds, however, require a bit more attention due to their natural adaptations that prevent them from sprouting at the wrong time. To help them germinate successfully, you’ll need to break this dormancy through a process called stratification. This process involves a simple pretreatment that mimics nature’s winter conditions.

Stratification helps seeds break dormancy. By softening the seed coat, it allows moisture to reach the embryo and kickstart germination. This technique lets gardeners start seeds indoors before the weather warms up and allows professional nurseries to grow plants ahead of schedule for a jumpstart in spring. I always encourage home gardeners to try stratification—it’s a fun, rewarding challenge, and there’s something extra satisfying about being able to say, “I grew this from seed!”

There are different types of stratification, and each type of seed will have its own specific requirements. A good seed supplier will provide this information right on the packet. Two of my favorites are Missouri Wildflower Nursery and Prairie Moon Nursery. Missouri Wildflower, based near Jefferson City, offers seeds that are local to our area. By buying from them, you’re supporting a regional small business and getting seeds that are collected from wild native plants. Prairie Moon, located in Winona, Minnesota, also provides native seeds, though they may not be as specifically adapted to our region. While some purists recommend only buying seeds from your immediate area, I like having a bit more flexibility and a broader selection. In my experience, both suppliers offer similar germination rates and plant success. Prairie Moon has really refined their packaging, stratification codes, and instructions—I’m a bit of a nerd about how well they communicate everything. Missouri Wildflower, being a smaller operation, keeps their instructions clear and to the point, which I really appreciate.

There are three main types of stratification: cold, alternating, and cold/moist. While each seed type has its own specific needs, we’ll focus on the first two and dive deeper into the third.

Cold Stratification (CS)

snow dusted seed pods in winter macro shot — Photo by Dominik Rheinheimer on Pexels.com

Cold stratification, also known as dry stratification, is one of the easiest methods! Seeds that need CS only require a period of low temperatures to soften their seed coat. I simply place my seed packets in the refrigerator—just make sure they don’t freeze. Temperatures between 33-41°F for one to three months is all that’s needed to break dormancy. I like to store mine in the middle of the fridge to avoid temperature fluctuations that happen in the door shelves. Once the chilling period is over, sow your seeds in flats and place them outdoors (once the weather is suitable) or under artificial light indoors to germinate.

Alternating Stratification (AS)

Alternating Stratification (AS) is a straightforward but slightly more complex technique. Some seeds have evolved to need multiple seasons of dormancy to germinate, requiring a cycle of cold, warmth, and then cold again. To mimic this natural process, you can alternate between placing your seed packets in the fridge (cold) and in a warm spot, like your pantry, to simulate the necessary temperature shifts.

Cold/Moist Stratification (CMS)

Cold/Moist Stratification (CMS) is the most common method for seeds we work with at Pollen to Petal. It mimics the cold and damp winter conditions of our Midwest climate. CMS can be done either in the fridge or outdoors.

The Refrigerator and Paper Towel Method is a popular indoor approach for CMS. Simply dampen a paper towel, place it in a ziplock bag, add your seeds, and store it in the fridge. While this method works well, I don’t prefer it because it takes up valuable fridge space and the seed roots sometimes get tangled in the towel, making the transfer to soil tricky. Some gardeners suggest turning the bag upside down to keep the towel above the seeds, preventing this issue.

For Outdoor Cold/Moist Stratification, the Milk Jug Method is a favorite! It’s a sustainable way to reuse plastics that might otherwise go to the landfill. You can use milk jugs, juice bottles, or even containers from rotisserie chicken or fruit. At Pollen to Petal, we use nursery flats and humidity domes for better organization in our indoor greenhouse. These flats are sanitized and reused to minimize waste. You could use any similar container that provides 2-3 inches of soil depth and 3-4 inches of space for the seeds to sprout.

To use milk jugs or juice bottles, cut three sides of the container to create a flap lid that makes it easy to add substrate, seeds, and check on the germination. Fill the bottom with 2-3 inches of lightly hydrated soil. The soil should hold its shape when squeezed, but not release water. Gently tamp it down without compacting it too much, as the roots need space to grow. Sow the seeds on the surface—most native seeds don’t need to be buried deeply—and top with vermiculite. Lightly water, but be careful not to overwater and drown the seeds. Don’t forget to label your containers!

Now, place your containers outside for the winter! I like to put ours against the concrete foundation of our house or in a raised bed with fall leaf litter for slight insulation. This keeps the seeds cold but not frozen. Some gardeners use a blanket over their containers during freezing conditions.

Be sure to check your CMS containers occasionally. If it’s too dry, water them gently. If the temperature rises unexpectedly, open the lid slightly to prevent the seeds from getting too warm.

Next up, we’ll cover what to do when you bring your CMS trays inside for early germination. Stay tuned, fellow nature lovers!

Photo by u/showtime316

*Pollen to Petal is not affiliated with, nor receives any compensation from any link or company mentioned within this post*

Sep 23 2024

Challenge Your Idea of “Fall Garden Cleanup”

{3-minute read}

Today, we’re sharing a few tips to prepare your property for cooler weather and ensure that our pollinators have a cozy spot to over-winter.

Photo by Rich Hatfield from Xerces.org

Putting gardens to bed for the season is a daunting task. Raking and bagging of leaves, collecting sticks and twigs, cutting back, and deciding how it will all be disposed of… It’s exhausting and destroys much of the good work done over the summer for our pollinators. Thinking differently about how we conduct fall cleanup can reduce your labor and time investment, and it simultaneously provides habitats for overwintering insect populations.

Leave the Leaves

Fireflies, native bees, Luna moths, and many other pollinators rely on fallen leaf litter to overwinter. We know it isn’t always feasible to leave fallen leaves in the residential landscape. After all, modern HOA restrictions and our love of turf usually require us to remove them. Instead, consider a few creative ways to keep a tidy look while providing habitat for your pollinators this winter.

Designate a “Larval Landing” location

Photo by Peter Keilty from Bees for All

Allow your dried leaves to accumulate in a singular area on your property. I like to put small piles of leaves in a few of my garden beds in the backyard. This keeps them out of sight from the neighbors but still provides habitat. Leaf piles should be at least 2 inches deep to attract and protect insects. Learn more and download Larval Landing building plans from Senior Stewards Acting for the Environment (ssafe.org)

Upcycle broken pots and birdbaths

old and broken clay pots on ground — Photo by Yaroslav Shuraev on Pexels.com

Gather broken pots, birdbaths, teacups, and coffee mugs and stack them in interesting shapes. Stuff them full of dried leaves, soil, pinecones, and other natural fall litter items. Remember to orient the shapes of broken pieces so that they shed water, instead of holding puddles.

Move leaves as they fall, rather than leaving them to move all at once. Chrysalises and cocoons are delicate and can be destroyed by raking or blowing. The idea is to build your dried leaf habitat as the leaves fall to avoid casualties. Learn more from The Xerces Society.

The importance of stems

close up of a weed growing on a field — Photo by Zahaoha _ on Pexels.com

Many pollinators are solitary and do not live in colonies or hives. Instead, they lay their eggs in hollow and dried stems of plants. When we tidy up in the fall by disposing of stems, we are leaving behind a landscape that is devoid of overwintering habitat.

Consider timing and what you can leave behind before you remove stems. Cutback should be done before the temperatures dip below 55 degrees consistently. Keep standing sections that range in length from 12-24 inches.

Collect cut and fallen stems and lay them in a location that’s out of the way. Tidy small piles behind evergreen shrubs or detached structures like sheds and garages work wonderfully. Remember not to lay them directly on the foundation. We don’t want to encourage an infestation inside. In late spring, when broods have hatched, these piles can be collected and composted. Learn more from this video from the University of Minnesota Extension.

Remember, plant materials that are diseased should never be composted. Instead, bag diseased materials and throw them in the trash. By changing how we think about cleaning up our landscapes in the fall we set up our gardens and our pollinator populations for success in the spring!

Aug 29 2024

Organic Wood Mulch: the real MVP

{5-minute read}

In a previous post we discussed the environmental and personal health impacts of four popular mulch types for the landscape. Today, let’s dissect the clear winner and our favorite- organic wood mulch.

wooden containers with wood chips sawdust firewood and charcoal — Photo by Skyler Ewing on Pexels.com

Hardwoods vs Softwoods.

It isn’t about the actual ‘toughness’ of the wood.

Some hardwoods are softer than softwoods. Some softwoods are harder than hardwoods. Isn’t that confusing? The classification comes from the leaf type and way the seeds are developed.

Hardwoods are broadleaved angiosperms, meaning that they produce covered seeds from pollinated flowers that develop a fruit. Walnut, maple, hickory, and birch are just a few of the examples you can find in the Ozarks. Hardwood mulches are readily available but often at a higher price point as they have a high economic value due to their strength and durability. They are enduring in the landscape thanks to their lignin content, a key structural polymer that provides rigidity and rot resistance. At the same time, since they do not break down quickly, they can take longer to release vital nutrients into the soil. As hardwoods break down, they also contribute to an increase in soil alkalinity. This is bad news for acidic loving plants such as tomatoes, blueberries, azaleas, and irises.

Softwoods are gymnosperms that produce naked seeds without a fruit covering in the form of a cone. Pine, spruce, hemlock, and cedar are common Ozarks softwoods. These mulches are lighter in weight, can have a pleasant fragrance, and often are less expensive than hardwood mulches. Some have natural properties that repel pests. They contribute to increased soil acidity during the decomposition process as well. This makes softwoods an ideal choice for your favorite acid loving plants. Learn more from Britannica.

Grind types and how they affect the nutrient cycling process.

Mulch producers obtain different textures by utilizing various sized screens and processing the wood fibers one or more times. Large pieces decompose more slowly. Small pieces return nutrients to the soil through a faster decomposition process because they are more accessible to bacteria, fungi and insects. Three common grind types are coarse, double, and fine.

Coarse Grind

Coarse, or unscreened, mulch is processed one time, giving the wood fibers a large and chunky texture that endures in the landscape. It breaks down on a slow schedule so it can require multiple applications of fertilizer per growing season but may only need refreshed every 3-5 years. Annual application is not advised in most situations due to the slow decomposition rate and the potential of creating mulch volcanoes around root flairs and crowns of plants. Learn more from Penn State.

Double Grind

Double grid has been processed and screened twice resulting in an intermediate texture. The smaller pieces will return their nutrients to the soil more quickly while larger pieces will endure in the landscape. A mixed textured mulch like this is usually refreshed on a 2–3-year schedule. Since its decomposition rate is somewhat slow it can still require fertilizer amendments, increasing your product consumption and time investment to apply.

Fine Grind

Fine mulch is processed multiple times and screeded to avoid large to intermediate sized pieces. The small texture of a fine grind benefits landscapes in many ways. It is softer to the touch so it’s easier on paws and bare feet. It breaks down quickly and adds critical nutrients and texture to the soil. It also knits together helping to reduce erosion and suppress weeds more readily than larger grinds.

What about bark nuggets and pine needles?

Pine bark nuggets and pine needles are popular because they are inexpensive, readily available, and extremely lightweight. However, nuggets are large and do not decompose quickly. Due to their lightweight nature, they can float away during rain events or blow away with wind making them a poor choice for slopes and erosion control.

Pine needles are so light that mulching with them requires three to four inches in depth in order to keep weed seeds from germinating. This can make growing shrubs, trees, or short plants difficult because there’s simply too much material encroaching on the root flair or crown of the plant. Learn more from Ohio State University.

Composted fine ground wood mulch. Our favorite.

Our local yard waste recycling center produces the best mulch we’ve ever worked with. It checks all the boxes!

It’s sustainable.

Produced from brush and tree debris from arborists and property owners. Using this product keeps our natural resources in our soils and out of the landfill.

It’s available.

There’s hardly a shortage of raw materials from landscapes and our temperate deciduous forests. Flashback to the 2007 ice storm.

It works for many situations.

Since it’s a composted product it has a dark and uniform color making it aesthetically pleasing in the landscape. As a mixture of hardwoods and softwoods the pros from each help to weaken the cons from the individual wood types. It has a higher bulk density than coarse mulch, increasing its ability to hold water, assist in stormwater runoff mitigation, and it is less likely to float away during rain events. Because it holds more water it is far less combustible. Your insurance agent will love that! Learn more from Biocycle and Colorado State University.

*Pollen to Petal is not affiliated with, nor receives any compensation from any link or company mentioned within this post*

Aug 21 2024

Mulching Matters

a child sitting in rubber boots sitting on a wooden plant box — Photo by RDNE Stock project on Pexels.com

{4-minute read}

Wood, rock, rubber, recycled, dyed…

There are so many mulch options. Your choice in material can make a great impact in your landscape and the environment. A proper mulching application will reduce your resource investment.

How?

It’ll help your plants beat the heat.

Sunlight on bare soil will quickly dry the substrate and increase soil temperatures causing stress to plant systems. Mulches provide a protective layer so that moisture levels can be retained longer in high heat conditions, reducing watering and irrigation needs.

It has the power to suppress weeds.

Mulch won’t eliminate weeds, but it will decrease their occurrence. Seeds need sunlight in order to germinate. Mulching provides conditions that make it difficult for weed seeds to obtain the resources they need to grow, reducing or eliminating herbicides and weeding time.

It can break up compacted soils.

The dense clay composition of soil in 417Land can make growing things here a challenge. Many types of organic mulches break down within one or two seasons. Decomposition adds texture, disrupting soil density and supplying nutrients.

It has the power to beautify.

Plants add curb appeal to homes, have the ability to soften the geometry of structures, and can add ROI to an investment. A well mulched landscape protects these investments while creating an aesthetically pleasing environment.

Consider the environmental impact and ease of availability.

person holding world globe facing mountain — Photo by Porapak Apichodilok on Pexels.com

When choosing your mulch material, it is important to keep in mind the benefits and potential hazards a particular material may bring into your landscape. Let’s discuss four popular options that are readily available in most markets.

#4 Recycled Rubber Mulch

stacked vehicle tire lot — Photo by Magda Ehlers on Pexels.com

Mostly made from used tires. Tire rubber is known to be highly flammable and toxic. It adds no beneficial nutrients back to the soil. Research shows that leachates from this product have the ability to kill entire aquatic communities. Learn more from Washington State University.

#3 Recycled Pallet Mulch

wooden pallets — Photo by Brent Keane on Pexels.com

Ever wondered why some mulches contain pieces with paint, markings, and trash? It’s often made from used shipping pallets. Pallets are marked to indicate the type of treatment undergone during production- including chemical treatments. Chemical spills on these pallets are also common during their lifetime in the shipping industry. Learn more about why you shouldn’t use pallets for projects here.

#2 Rock and Gravel Mulch

person standing on gravel — Photo by Jonathan Borba on Pexels.com

Lava rock, pea gravel and river stone are common rock mulch options. Rock has a tidy look and since it does not break down (at least when compared to the human lifespan) it can be a one-time investment for the property owner. However, this mulch type requires judicious use and site preparation.

Rock mulch is heavy and over time will sink into the surrounding soil. To prevent this, a barrier layer of landscape fabric is installed to separate soil from rock. Applying this layer prevents organic matter from entering the soil and feeding plants. Instead, organic matter will accumulate between the rock and fabric layer creating a cozy spot for weeds to thrive. Although technically a permeable material, landscape fabric significantly slows the rate of oxygen exchange and water infiltration, making it difficult for plants and soil microbes to obtain the resources required to survive.

Rock also acts as a natural heat sink by reflecting, absorbing, and releasing solar energy over time. When paired with tender plant materials, heat from rock mulch can solarize, or ‘cook’, roots, crowns, and stems. Succulents and cacti can thrive in these conditions, so it is key to ensure your mulch choice matches the needs of your chosen plant material. Learn more from Kansas State University.

#1 Organic Wood Mulch

hands on a pile of dirt — Photo by Alfo Medeiros on Pexels.com

The real MVP.

This option benefits the soil by reducing evaporation, improving aeration and water penetration, and protecting plants with shallow root systems from freezing and/or heaving during winter.

Wood mulch will also improve the structure of soils and add nutrients during the decomposition process. However, it can also cause ‘nitrogen lockup’. Lockup occurs when soil organisms consume carbon in the wood chips, using up available nitrogen in the process. Adding blood meal, a byproduct of livestock production (alfalfa meal for a vegan option), will supply nitrogen to soil organisms and plant materials.

Organic wood mulch can often be found locally through arborists or your area’s yard waste recycling center. Using locally sourced products decreases your carbon footprint by reducing or eliminating the need for resource consumption such as plastic packaging and fuel for freight transportation.

Next up we’ll discuss the differences in types of organic wood mulch. There’s hardwood, softwood, coarse grind, fine grind, pine bark, pine needles…. You get the idea.

*Pollen to Petal is not affiliated with, nor receives any compensation from, any link or company mentioned within this post*